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LIVING GREEN: Our clothing footprint: What is fair to wear?

I have never had much time for fashion, preferring to create my own style from "hand-me-overs," consignment treasures and the odd retail splurge.

I have never had much time for fashion, preferring to create my own style from "hand-me-overs," consignment treasures and the odd retail splurge. But recently, I have become aware that second in impact to our food footprint (the subject of next month's column) is our textile footprint.

Coinciding with Earth Day last month was Eco Fashion Week in Vancouver, founded by Myriam Laroche in 2014 and the first of its kind worldwide. Metro Vancouver hosted a panel discussion, featuring representatives across the textile industry's lifecycle from the design/retail, consignment, charity and reclamation sectors. (You can check out videos from this engaging and informative public forum at www.metrovancouver.org/media-room.)

Glencora Twigg, designer and co-founder of We3 Designs, was one of the panelists. Her Vancouver company only sells merchandise that meets at least one of three sustainability criteria:

made from sustainably manufactured fabrics (including dyes);

Canadian made;

and ethically produced.

Since few designer lines satisfy all three, Glencora co-founded We3 with two partners.

One of the complicating realities is our growing demand for stretchy read: "comfortable" fabrics. Denim jeans are no longer 100% cotton but are consistently infused with Spandex; others, with elastane.

As soon as "natural" materials are mixed with synthetic ones, we create a problem. Whether we are talking textiles (clothing fabric, carpets, upholstery) or building materials (wood, concrete, steel), the mix of naturally occurring with artificially constructed makes for almost impossible recycling.

What tends to occur, therefore, is known as "down-cycling," repurposing the material into a less valuable product with an even shorter lifespan. Pure reuse, therefore, is ideal.

The outdoor apparel company Patagonia's legacy of taking back its non-reparable products to remake into new clothing was, and still is, trail-blazing. Its website lists the following "e-fabrics" of choice: recycled polyester, organic cotton, hemp, chlorine-free wool, recycled nylon and Tencel lyocell.

I would also like to add flax (linen) to that list. Most of my summer linen separates were scooped up from consignment shops and my favourites are the skirts, cut on the bias (diagonal), providing not only natural stretch and comfort, but also a flattering look.

Unfortunately, the marketing industry has had us believe, for decades, that cotton is the "natural" option when, in fact, nothing could be further from the truth. Growing (industrial) cotton is pesticide-intensive, more so than any other crop, subjecting both labourers and the ecosystem to toxic chemicals. Moreover, the textile dyes often used in our clothing are highly toxic and can be absorbed by the wearer over time.

In late April, my pastor invited several individuals who have a passion for social justice to share some of their endeavours with us. One of the inspiring individuals, Kelly Warkentin, decided to put her curiosity and research skills to work by evaluating the retailers at Coquitlam Centre based on how sustainable their procurement policies appeared to be. (Check out her blog at living-justly.blogspot.ca.)

Social justice continues to be one of the most important issues we face. As overwhelming as it may seem, it is important, as individuals, to take the first step to a wiser choice. With growing awareness of the choices we can make, and knowing choice is a privilege that we need to exercise with care, please consider the following:

Promote reuse: Give to and purchase from consignment and charity shops. We are fortunate to have so many here in the Lower Mainland. You can have fun discovering your favourites.

Purchase with care: Read clothing labels for fabric content and country of origin, and ask retailers how their products are actually made, from start to finish.

Talk about it: A free market should come from free people. Find out more at slaveryfootprint.org.

Melissa Chaun of Port Moody is an ecologist with a passion for all things sustainable. She began her environmental career in the U.S. and has a certificate in Sustainable Community Development. She volunteers on various city committees and is currently co-ordinating the monthly meetings for Tri-City Greendrinks. Her column runs monthly.