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MARKET FRESH: Feed the soil, not the plant – and remember Mary, organic pioneer

Why organic? Do you ever ask yourself that? What is so special about organic food?
Karen Curtis
Karen Curtis

Why organic? Do you ever ask yourself that? What is so special about organic food? Why is it so expensive? Does it taste better?

A trip to the farmers market is a great place to find the answers. I wanted to focus this column on organic farming and what it means to our health and our economy.

Honestly, until I became a market vendor, I never really gave organic food much thought. We always had a garden when I was growing up so I thought I was pretty savvy when it came to where my food came from.

Turns out I didn’t know the half of it. Much of what I know now was taught to me by Mary Forstbauer, the matriarch of Forstbauer Farms. Sadly, Mary passed away on Oct. 30. While Mary is no longer with us, her family and farm still are.

So what did I learn from Mary? I learned that there isn’t a farmer who comes to our markets who hasn’t been touched by her and her drive to produce organic food. Even the farmers who choose to farm through conventional means have made changes to their practices to help ensure the health of their farms. In fact, Mary’s passion for organic farming resulted in her receiving one of Canada’s highest honours in her field, the Canadian Health Food Association’s Organic Achievement Award.

So if organic is the chosen path for you as a consumer, this is what makes it special.

When a farm is certified organic, everything about the operation has met the strictest standards. In fact, the certifying body in this province, the Certified Organic Associations of BC, hold its members to even higher standards than the national body, in some cases. This means that no synthetic fertilizers, pesticides herbicides or GMO are used. If the farm produces added value products such as juices or preserves, no chemical preservatives can be used nor can there be any synthetic flavourings or colours added. Farms that raise animals are committed to best practices that include allowing the animals free run, socializing and no animal byproducts in the feed.

But simply removing agri-chemicals is not enough to turn a conventional farm into an organic farm. Organic farming is an active, labour-intensive process.

For example, organic farmers use quality compost, cover crops (such as nitrogen-rich alfalfa) and crop rotation to nourish soil naturally, and to allow it to rest and regenerate. Plants grown in healthy soil are better able to feed and protect themselves from pests and disease, which means they won’t require heavy applications of fertilizers and pesticides.

The expression “Feed the soil, not the plant” is a familiar refrain among organic farmers.

Organic farmers are also careful about how they store and compost animal waste in order to safeguard air and water systems.

They tailor their crops according to climate and soil to optimize the natural growth cycle.

Organic farmers also promote biodiversity by growing a variety of crops rather than a single crop.

Through all of these methods, organic farmers prevent soil erosion, conserve energy and help protect local wildlife, stream banks and watersheds. They help protect the global environment, as well:

Organic farming can greatly reduce the amount of greenhouse gases, such as carbon dioxide, that contribute to global warming.

B.C. leads the way with organic farming. There are close to 30,000 acres of organic farmland in British Columbia, of which 40% is farmed by women. Mary Forstbauer was the heart and soul of the organic movement in B.C. and she taught me that, all in all, organic is about so much more than just growing food. It’s a way of life that can help sustain us all. And for that, I thank her.

But remember, regardless of which produce you choose, purchasing locally grown food is the most important.

--Karen Curtis is the Lemonade Lady (www.kicslemonade.ca and kicslemonade.blogspot.ca) at the Coquitlam and Port Coquitlam farmers markets. Her column runs monthly.

 

 

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THE RECIPE: SQUASH, THYME, ONION, PASTA

Stop by the Port Moody Market Sundays to stock up on all your local produce. December’s featured veggie is onions. Try this pasta recipe that makes full use of onions and another seasonal staple, butternut squash.
 
PASTA WITH THYME-SCENTED
BUTTERNUT SQUASH & ONION SAUCE
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp butter
1 large onion, sliced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium butternut squash, cut in half with seeds removed
2 tsp thyme, preferably fresh
1 tsp nutmeg
4 cups pasta
Place squash halves, cut side down, in a glass baking dish. Fill with half inch of water, cover and microwave on high 10 to 12 minutes, or until squash is soft and easily pierced. Remove from dish and let cool.
Meanwhile, sauté onions in butter and olive oil over medium heat until onions are soft and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, thyme and nutmeg, turn down heat and continue cooking another 10 minutes or so.
While onions are cooking, cook pasta according to package instructions. Drain pasta, reserving 2 cups pasta water. Remove squash from skin and add to pan with onion and garlic. Thin sauce with reserved pasta water. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with cooked pasta.
Serves 4 to 6.